Exploring the Amalfi Coast in November
The Amalfi Coast is famous for its lemons, stunning viewpoints, and rows of colorful homes perched above the sea — at least, that’s what the photos make you believe. But beyond the Instagram-perfect shots, the Amalfi Coast is also cozy, community-driven, and full of small, lively businesses.
So why did we decide to visit in November? During my year of travel, my husband’s first visit happened to fall at the end of October and into November. The Amalfi Coast had always been on his list, so we figured — why not? We knew it would be off-season and a little chilly, but that also meant fewer crowds and cheaper stays.
We based ourselves in Meta, a small town about 10 minutes north of Sorrento and an hour north of Amalfi. It’s one of the first towns along the coastal route, quaint with a few local shops — and much more affordable than staying in Sorrento itself.
Since we had a rental car, getting around was easy. I definitely recommend driving if you can. There’s a train, but it only connects a few towns, and while buses exist, they run on their own unpredictable schedules (as I learned — Italian buses have their own sense of time!). That said, the train is handy if you’re heading between Meta and Sorrento, since the road traffic can get pretty bad.
Keep in mind — this wasn’t a full-on vacation for us. We’re both working while traveling, so we balanced sightseeing with downtime and workdays.
Day 1
We spent the first evening in Sorrento, strolling through the city and getting our bearings. It was a quiet, easy day — perfect for easing into a new place after traveling.
Day 2 — Halloween in Meta 🎃
Halloween in Meta was such a pleasant surprise! We wandered around town and saw the streets decorated with pumpkins and cobwebs, and local kids were trick-or-treating along the main commercial street. It was lively, festive, and so charming to see a slice of local life. We had some tea and a charcuterie board at this lovely and whimsical place called Il Caffè del Tappezziere.
Day 3 — The Amalfi Drive Adventure
This was our busiest day. We started with brunch at Radical Sorrento — a gorgeous café with the kind of brunch we’d been craving after weeks of Italian breakfasts. I had a croissant sandwich with bacon, avocado, tomato, and lettuce, plus an iced latte. My husband got Turkish eggs and a cappuccino — both were delicious.
Then we hit the road toward Amalfi. I had forgotten how much I get carsick as a passenger (and the winding coastal roads didn’t help), but the views were breathtaking and absolutely worth it. Just a note of caution — the roads are narrow and twisty, so drive carefully and only pull over for photos where it’s safe.
We stopped at Villa Cimbrone, a hotel with beautiful gardens. There’s no direct entrance to the gardens — you’ll need to hike up a good number of steps for about 15 minutes (yes, I was sweating by the top). Entry was €7 per person, and totally worth it for the views and peaceful atmosphere. Just be prepared for the uphill walk!
Afterward, we tried to find a place from our restaurant list, but since it was All Saints’ Day, several spots were closed. We ended up driving to Amalfi town and found a cozy restaurant that was open and highly rated. I had pesto spaghetti (pure comfort food after all that hiking), and Nick ordered a pizza. The staff was warm, the food was hearty, and the outdoor heaters made it feel extra cozy on a chilly night. We wrapped up the evening with some gelato before heading back to our Airbnb — by 8:30 p.m., most of the town was already asleep.
Day 4 — Pompeii
Somehow, I hadn’t realized how close Pompeii was to us — just a 40-minute drive from our Airbnb! We were a little late for our guided tour, but our guide was kind enough to let us catch up. We booked a two-hour tour with Akros, which was excellent. Afterward, we explored on our own for about an hour, and honestly, I wished we had arrived earlier. The site is enormous, and every corner has layers of history to uncover. If you’re anywhere near the area, **don’t miss it**.
Day 5 — Our Last Day
On our final full day, we worked in the morning, then headed back into Sorrento for one last stroll — and finally treated ourselves to a proper seafood meal. We stopped at DA BOB COOK FISH for a lunch/early dinner. We were pleasantly surprised as it was our second choice and we just found it on Google. We walked in and because it was Monday, it was empty. This Michelin star restaurant was all to ourselves. This was by far our best meal of the trip. They treated us to this mouse octopus amuse-bouche. I know it doesn’t sound appealing but it was so delicious. Each part of this meal from my pasta with clams to my husband snapper catch of the day meal was suburb. You can read the full review here. But if you find yourself in Sorrento, don’t just walk, run here. After our meal we drove to the waterfront and just looked out into the ocean. A peaceful end to a beautiful day.